Visual & Digital Arts

Oil painting

Oil painting

CostMedium

Includes: Oil paints, brushes, canvas or panels, thinner, medium, palette, cleaner, and storage Example: Starter setups run €100–300; pro tools and materials can scale quickly, especially with large-format work or custom frames.

What it is

Oil paint never truly dries. It hardens through oxidation, a slow chemical reaction with the air that can take months to finish fully and years to complete deep within a thick layer. That single fact explains why oil behaves unlike any other paint and why it has been the choice of master painters for six hundred years.

Oil painting uses pigment suspended in a drying oil, usually linseed. Because it stays workable on the canvas for hours or even days, you can blend colours directly on the surface, soften edges long after laying them down, and build subtle gradations of light that fast-drying paints simply cannot match. The depth and luminosity of an oil painting comes partly from this, and partly from the way light passes into translucent layers and reflects back out.

The slow drying is both the gift and the burden. It gives you unmatched control and forgiveness, since you can scrape a whole passage off and rework it the next day. It also means a painting takes patience to finish, because you often have to wait for one layer to set before glazing over it. The traditional rule, "fat over lean", layering oilier paint over leaner paint so the upper layers stay flexible, exists to stop finished work from cracking as it cures.

The honest barrier is the cleanup. Oils do not dissolve in water. Traditional practice uses solvents like turpentine, which smell strong and need ventilation. Modern water-mixable oils have largely solved this, behaving like real oil but cleaning up under the tap, and they have brought a lot of people into the medium who were put off by the fumes.

A basic starter kit, a few tubes of student oils, two or three brushes, and a small canvas, runs around €40. The paint itself goes a long way because a little spreads far.

How it works

Drying time is the variable that shapes every decision in oil painting, and understanding it early saves weeks of frustration. Oils stay workable for hours or days, which is the medium's great gift, letting you blend edges and rework areas long after laying them down. The discipline that comes with this is fat over lean. Each layer must contain slightly more oil than the one beneath, or the surface cracks as it cures over months.

The first layers are thinned with solvent or a lean medium, keeping them quick-drying and matte. Later layers use more oil for richness and flexibility. Start with an underpainting, a single muted colour blocking in the shapes and values, then build colour on top once that is touch-dry. Water-mixable oils like Winsor & Newton Artisan skip the solvent entirely and clean up with soap and water, which is why many people now start with them at home.

Brushwork in oil is physical and varied. Stiff hog-bristle brushes move thick paint and leave texture, while soft synthetics blend smoothly. The paint can be scraped back with a palette knife and reworked, something no fast-drying medium allows. What experienced painters exploit is the long open time, walking away, returning with fresh eyes, and adjusting while the paint is still live.

Cleanup is the part nobody warns beginners about. Traditional oils need solvent for brushes and create rags that must dry flat before disposal. The water-mixable route avoids all of that. Either way, never pour anything down the drain.

Benefits

Creativity Relaxation Patience Self-Expression Enjoyment / Fun

What you need

Here's what to gather before you start. The essentials are marked.

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Oil paints (starter set or custom colours)
Canvas, wood, or primed paper

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Assorted craft paper pack

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Brushes (bristle and synthetic mix)

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Artist paint brush set

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Palette and mixing space
Linseed oil or other medium
Mineral spirits or brush cleaner
Rags or towels

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Towel

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Easel, varnish, palette knife, brush soap, airtight palette box Optional

FAQs

No, though it has a reputation that scares people off. Oils are actually forgiving in ways acrylics are not, because they stay wet for hours or days, so I can blend, push paint around, and fix mistakes long after applying them. The real beginner hurdles are slow drying times and learning to handle solvents, not the painting itself. Plenty of people start with oils and never look back.

Paint, brushes, a surface, a medium, and something to clean with. A basic set of student-grade oils (Winsor & Newton Winton is the usual recommendation, around €40 for a set) plus a couple of pre-primed canvas boards gets you painting. You need a medium like linseed oil to thin and extend the paint, and a way to clean brushes. Hog-bristle brushes suit oils better than soft synthetics at first.

Not necessarily, which surprises people. You can paint with solvent-free methods using only oil mediums and clean brushes with oil then soap, avoiding turpentine entirely. If you do use solvents, odourless mineral spirits (like Gamsol) are far less harsh than traditional turpentine. I switched to solvent-free years ago and never missed the fumes.

Because that is how oils work, and it is a feature rather than a fault. Oil paint dries by oxidation, not evaporation, so a layer can take days to be touch-dry and weeks to fully cure. Thin layers dry faster than thick ones. You can speed it up with a medium like Liquin, which cuts drying time to roughly a day. The slow drying is exactly what lets you blend so smoothly.

It is the one technical rule that genuinely matters for oils. Each layer you add should contain more oil (be 'fatter') than the layer beneath it, achieved by adding more medium to upper layers. Get it backwards (lean paint over fat) and the surface cracks as it cures because the layers dry at different rates and pull against each other. Beginners who ignore this find their paintings cracking months later.

You do not need to clean them fully every time. Because oil paint stays wet, I wrap brushes tightly in cling film or foil to keep them usable for a day or two, or suspend them in oil. For longer breaks, clean properly with oil then soap and water. This is one of the quiet conveniences of oils that acrylic painters, who must clean immediately or ruin a brush, never get.

⚠️ Solvent safety: Turpentine and mineral spirits give off flammable vapours that should not be inhaled in an enclosed space. Work with ventilation, keep solvents away from heat and flame, and never pour them down the drain. Oily rags can self-combust as they dry, so lay them flat outdoors or store them in a sealed metal container before disposal.