Repairing mechanical watches
CostHigh
Includes: Tool kit, cleaning solution, lubricants, practice watches. Example: A basic tool kit costs €50-150; cleaning solution €20-40.
What it is
A quartz watch that stops gets a new battery. A mechanical watch that stops needs someone willing to work with components measured in tenths of a millimetre, under magnification, with tweezers. That work can be yours, and the craft is among the most demanding and rewarding precision pursuits there is.
Repairing mechanical watches means servicing, diagnosing, and restoring mechanical and automatic wristwatches: cleaning and lubricating movements, replacing worn parts, adjusting timing, and refinishing cases. A mechanical watch is a self-contained timekeeping machine with dozens of parts, some finer than a hair, all working in concert. Taking that mechanism apart and bringing it back to life is a genuinely intense kind of focus, and the revival of interest in mechanical watches has created real demand for people who can actually service them.
The sensible way in is to practise on something you do not mind damaging. A £10 to £20 eBay mechanical watch is the right first patient, paired with a basic tool kit of case opener, movement holder, tweezers, screwdrivers, and a loupe. Watch Mark Lovick's Watch Repair Channel before touching anything, because understanding the movement's layout first saves a lot of grief. A basic service runs to taking the movement out, stripping it into major parts, cleaning, drying, oiling specific jewels with the correct watch oils, and reassembling. Work over a white surface so dropped parts show up, keep watchmaker's putty nearby for catching tiny screws, and label everything. The ETA 6497 is the standard beginner movement because its parts are large and visible and spares are everywhere.
How it works
A cheap practice movement is the tool that protects everything you care about. Buy a £10 to £20 mechanical watch from eBay that you genuinely do not mind destroying, because you will drop parts, ping springs across the room, and scratch things while learning. The ETA 6497 is the standard teaching movement: it is a large pocket-watch caliber with components big enough to see and handle, simple architecture, and spares available everywhere.
Watch Mark Lovick's Watch Repair Channel through before touching anything, because understanding the movement's layout first turns disassembly from chaos into a sequence. A basic service runs like this: remove the movement from the case, let down the mainspring power safely, then strip it into its major assemblies, the gear train, the balance, the keyless works. Clean every part, dry it, then oil specific jewels and pivot points with the correct watch oils, a heavier oil like Moebius 9501 on slow high-friction points and a fine oil like 9010 on fast pivots. Reassemble in reverse.
The working conditions matter more than beginners expect. Work over a white tray or mat so dropped parts show against it, keep watchmaker's putty nearby for lifting tiny screws and steadying parts, and label a small container for each sub-assembly so you never mix up screws that look identical but differ by a fraction of a millimetre. Anti-static handling and a dust-free surface keep grit out of the movement.
What actually trips people up is over-oiling, not under-oiling. A drop too large spreads across the plate, attracts dust, and gums the movement, so the correct amount looks like almost nothing on the tip of the oiler. Start on a simple time-only movement and master it completely before going near a date complication or a chronograph, which add tools, parts, and a great deal of difficulty.
Benefits
What you need
Here's what to gather before you start. The essentials are marked.
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FAQs
Yes, but start on cheap movements you don't mind destroying. Buy a few inexpensive working watches or a job lot of broken ones and practise disassembly and reassembly until your hands learn the scale. The parts are tiny and the tolerances unforgiving, so the first dozen attempts are about building dexterity, not fixing anything. A common Seagull or Miyota movement is a forgiving teacher.
A set of quality screwdrivers, fine tweezers, a movement holder, a loupe, and a dust blower. Cheap screwdrivers slip and scratch, so this is one area worth spending on, with Bergeon being the benchmark and several decent budget brands below it. Add a timegrapher (around €150 to €200) later to measure accuracy. To begin, a basic kit under €60 lets you take a movement apart and back together.
Because tiny springs and jewels want to escape, and everything must align perfectly under tension. The mainspring, the balance wheel, and the click spring are notorious for pinging across the room. Work inside a clear container or over a light tray so launched parts land somewhere findable. Patience matters more than speed: forcing a misaligned part bends pivots that are almost impossible to replace.
Cleanliness is half the craft. Work in a dust-free spot, blow parts clean rather than wiping, and apply oil sparingly with a proper oiler, since too much oil attracts dirt and gums the movement. Each pivot needs only a microscopic drop. Beginners almost always over-oil, which slows the watch and traps grit, so err toward too little until you can see the right amount.
For learning and cheap watches, absolutely. For a valuable or sentimental piece, no, at least not until you are genuinely competent. A professional service costs €100 to €300 because it demands skill, cleaning equipment, and parts access you won't have early on. Practise on throwaway movements, and send anything precious to a professional until your own work is reliably better than not touching it.
Months of regular practice for a basic service, longer for complications. Stripping, cleaning, oiling, and reassembling a simple three-hand movement so it keeps good time is a real milestone that most people reach after many repeated attempts. Complications like chronographs and calendars add whole layers of difficulty. Treat it as a slow craft, not a weekend project, and the progress is deeply satisfying.
⚠️ Mechanical watch parts are extremely small and easily lost or damaged. Work over a tray, handle mainsprings with care as they store energy, and keep valuable watches away from your bench until your skills are proven.