Collector's Corner

Creating modular terrain pieces for gaming

Creating modular terrain pieces for gaming

CostLow to Medium

Includes: XPS foam, paints and scatter, magnets Example: A complete basic dungeon set €50-80 in materials

What it is

Build a dungeon once and it is a dungeon. Build it in interchangeable sections and it is every dungeon you will ever need. Creating modular terrain for gaming is the systematic craft of making interlocking components, corridors, cave sections, wilderness tiles, street segments, that recombine into endlessly varied layouts without rebuilding from scratch each session.

Modularity is an engineering problem before it is an artistic one. Every piece has to connect cleanly to every other, hold a consistent height and footprint, and stack or store without crushing the detail. That constraint shapes every design decision, and getting it wrong means a beautiful set that never quite fits together on the table.

Open-source clip systems changed the field. The OpenLOCK and OpenForge standards define a common connector that any 3D-printed piece can share, so a wall someone designed on another continent locks into yours perfectly. A printer, free design files, and a spool of filament now produce a modular dungeon for the cost of plastic and electricity, and the shared standard means the community keeps expanding the same compatible library.

How it works

Standardise the tile size before cutting anything, because every piece you ever make has to match it. 75mm by 75mm or 100mm by 100mm suit common RPG grids, and the rule is absolute: every tile in the collection shares the same footprint and the same height, or the pieces will not sit flush against each other. This single decision, made first, determines whether the set works for years or fights you every session.

XPS foam is the material of choice. Cut it to size with a hot wire cutter for clean square edges, carve in stone or floor texture, seal with watered PVA, and paint in layers the same way as any terrain. The consistency of the cut matters more here than on a one-off piece, since a tile a millimetre out of square shows as a gap every time it meets a neighbour.

The connection method is the real engineering. Undercut the base of each tile by 2 to 3mm so pieces butt together at floor level without a visible seam where the bevelled edges meet. Recessed neodymium magnets in each edge hold tiles together firmly during play, and aligning their polarity matters, since two magnets the wrong way round push apart instead of pulling together.

Benefits

Enhanced Gaming Experience Engineering and Design Thinking Sculpting and Painting Skills Cost vs Commercial Products Satisfying Production Project Infinite Configuration Variety

What you need

Here's what to gather before you start. The essentials are marked.

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XPS foam board

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Xps foam board

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Hot wire cutter
Acrylic paints

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Acrylic paint

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PVA glue

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Pva glue

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Neodymium magnets or OpenLOCK clips
Standardised tile dimension plan

FAQs

Modular terrain is built in interchangeable sections that reconfigure into a different layout every game. Instead of one fixed board, I build tiles, walls, and pieces that snap or sit together in endless combinations. The payoff is huge: one set of modular pieces gives me a forest one week and a dungeon the next, which a fixed board never can. It is the most game-flexible way to build.

Match a grid your games use, commonly square tiles of 15cm or 30cm, or hexes if your system uses them. Consistent tile dimensions are the whole point, because pieces that do not align leave gaps that ruin both the look and the play. I build a simple jig (a square frame of scrap wood) so every tile comes out exactly the same size. Measure twice before cutting the first one, because a 2mm drift compounds across a full table.

Magnets or matching edges. I embed small neodymium magnets in the tile edges so adjacent pieces click together and resist getting knocked apart mid-game. A cheaper option is a consistent flat edge profile so tiles simply butt together neatly. The mistake is decorating right up to the tile edge with tall scenery, which stops pieces sitting flush. I keep the outer few millimetres of each tile clear and flat.

More planning, similar skill. The building techniques are identical to any terrain, but the design phase matters far more, because every piece has to work with every other piece. I sketch the whole system first and decide my tile size and connection method before cutting anything. Once that system is locked, each individual piece is no harder than a standalone build, and the flexibility you gain is worth the extra forethought.