Painting & weathering model figures (RPG minis, soldiers, etc.)

Contrast or Speed Paints over a primed figure. Prime in white (or zenithal, white sprayed from above over a black base), then flow a Contrast-style paint over each area, where it pools in the recesses and thins on the raised parts to create instant shading. A light drybrush and one bright highlight finish it. This method gets a tabletop-standard figure done in 30 to 45 minutes instead of hours.

Three sizes cover almost everything: a size 1 or 2 for base coats, a size 0 for detail, and a size 000 for eyes and the very finest work. A Kolinsky sable brush (Winsor & Newton Series 7) holds a far better point and outlasts cheap synthetics for fine work, so two good sables beat a whole pack of bad ones. Wash them properly and they last for years.

Acrylic figure paints from Citadel, Vallejo, or The Army Painter. These are formulated for miniatures, thin well with water, and cover in thin coats, which is exactly what you want. Start with a small core set: a few base colours, black, white, a brown wash, and a couple of metallics. You can mix almost anything from a dozen well-chosen pots, and water-based acrylics clean up with plain water.

Paint applied straight from the pot, too thick. Miniature paint needs thinning with water or a thinning medium until it flows, then building up in two or three thin coats rather than one heavy one. Thick paint clogs the fine detail that the sculptor worked hard to put in, drowning faces and folds. Thin coats are the single biggest leap in quality for almost every beginner, even though it feels slower at first.

Restraint and layering. Sponge chipping (dab paint with a torn sponge), pigment powders for dust and mud, and oil washes for grime all build realistic wear, but the trick is applying less than you think you need. Real wear concentrates in specific places: edges chip, lower legs get muddy, exhausts streak. Weathering everything evenly is the giveaway that ruins it. Reference photos of the real thing beat guessing every time.

A varnish coat once everything is dry. A matte or satin varnish (brush-on or spray) protects the paint from handling wear, which matters a lot for gaming figures that get picked up constantly. Spray varnishes give an even coat but need warm, dry conditions, because spraying in cold or humid air can leave a white frosted bloom that ruins the finish. A common approach is matte varnish over the whole figure, then a dab of gloss only on the eyes and any wet-look details.

⚠️ Spray primers, varnishes, pigment powders, and some weathering products release fumes and fine particulates. Spray and airbrush in a ventilated space or a spray booth, wear a mask rated for fine particles when handling pigment powders, and keep all paints, solvents, and washes away from food, skin contact, children, and pets. Follow the safety guidance printed on each product.